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Yea it works just like always the only difference is the thermostat.. fan works like it should..

Yea, that was my issue. they are good little incubators but the thermostat is expensive for what it is.. I know a lot of folks hate wafers but Ive had good service from them.. Ive got two at a local school right now with wafers and since I set them for the classroom temp I have not had to touch...

I have had three for about 12 years... I've rewired the thermostats on two of mine that died.. first one I put another electronic in and it lasted about 2 years and went out again.. Now I rewire them with a Wafer thermostat.. I put my own light in too.. With the newer heat element and fan that...

Ive got three stryo incubators that Ive used for 15 years. one 1588, one 1583 and a 1588 that I rewired with a wafer thermostat.. Ive got an old LG that I don't use anymore but it still works fine.. I

I’ve shipped a bunch and bought a bunch. It’s in the wrapping and the handling. Honestly you just never know... I’ve got a 80% hatch from shipped eggs that had been beat to death then I’ve gotten 10% hatches from boxs that looked perfect.. I consider myself lucky to get 60% and expect...

in the sub $200 area a hovabator 1588 with turner is hard to beat...Or maybe a gqf 2370 with turner for about $145 shipped

I did it with a silkie for several days once.from about day 14 to about day 19 when they started pipping.. I have a Monitor with a duel therm/hygrometer probe. Temp varied from about 95° to about 99° Depending on time of day. Humidity was around 55% and varied a few percentage points through...

Just to add if you do a regular PID you’ll need a SSR.. I know a lot of people who use the st1000’s and like them for the price. I think the biggest gripe is they only have a differential of .03° but honestly that’s not bad

Yea I just added to my post a guy who didn’t know and his fan burnt out.. it’s easy to fix it as you did

I have a couple Omron PID’s that work great and with pt100 sensors are accurate as controlled to 0.1°.. just be care of what plug and play controller you get if you get that kind. Some of them blink the fan and heater as it’s controlling heat.. meaning the fan didn’t run constant..It shuts off...

I ship mine double boxed, individually wrapped in bubble wrap..then securely wrapped in a bundle and packed in a smaller box. Then smaller box packed in a larger box with padding.. I’ve gotten my best hatch rates from shipped eggs that have been shipped like that by far.. Most broken eggs have...

I gotta agree. I’ve seen many cheaper therms, even medical mercury therms laying side by side and read 1°-3° different. . There’s only so much you can expect from a $10 instrument. You might get lucky and get a good one and you might now

I know I’ve seen this come up many times with the new 1588’s bring off from a known calibrated thermometer/ hygrometer. In case you didn’t know you can calibrate your 1588 to match your known good therm...

I have a dickey that’s been great. That and several 1588’s that have been humming along for years.

I like the brinsea spot check.

I just got a shipment and they were maybe the darkest welsummer eggs I've ever seen. Oh and arrived in perfect shape..

Sent a PM, thanks

first off let me say I've never had anything but great experiences buying and selling here on BYC.. that said, since last summer I've seen a lot of folks getting into the egg business., we have gotten several batches of shipped eggs from folks who don't know what they are doing. Wrapping eggs in...

We do later in cycle with a good strong light light. At least 200 lumen

Sure they can, just need turned. The guts are the same other than the turning rack.. hand turn them or make a roller rack for each tray that way you can turn all the eggs at once by just moving the rack in each tray